From old ancient table to new vintage desk table

 

 

 

FROM OLD ANCIENT TABLE TO NEW VINTAGE DESK TABLE  

 

before and after ancient desk table renew


Today's project will be a little more challenging than the last. 

We founded desk table on internet: a nice desk with a huge potential.When we went to see it the initial excitement has turned into despair. The desk had obvious structural problems: both rear legs were crooked and also well bonded. Result: the table had a slope that made him not quite usable!

The price however was very inviting and so we decided to take it anyway.So, let's start!

To get a good job, respecting all the shutter speeds the time required will be about 1 week.

STEP 1: FIND THE DESK TABLE

 

Find a desk is not simple and the prices are pretty high. But you might look for a table, not too big, and the prices are significantly lower.A table can easily be adapted as a desk, if is not too big. As well as a large desk can become a table, or from a table can be derived a lower table.

  













For a desktop search will always recommend to look for in flea markets and on ads used specialized sites. Always check the condition of the cabinet. Look if the wood is not too damaged, or if there are any missing pieces that should cost too much to replace. Also check the presence of holes caused by termites, because not always the problem is solvable and the work would be much longer. In our search we were pretty lucky. The desk table we purchased is a rather antique table, from the early 900. And despite the obvious structural problems the price was very good.


STEP 2: THE MATERIALS


Now let's see what it can serve you:

  • - alcohol and patches;
  • - putty for wood (in this case it's good white);
    • - glue for wood;
    • - sander and sandpaper (80, 120, 240);
    • - primer paint matt and colorless (we recommend the water and long-lasting);
    • - enamel teal blue (or alternatively any other color);
    • - solid wax matt and waterproof finish (still water);
    • - brushes. Only need two, one medium-sized and some brush to treat the details.     (Remember to wash them immediately with warm water and mild soap);
    • - knobs, vintage style;
    • - gloves, face mask, suitable clothing.   
     
    At this point you will have everything you need to get started. So let's go!
     

    STEP 3: ANALYSIS AND RESOLUTION OF STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS


     Clean the desk table with alcohol and patches to remove any dirt.  

    Remove the drawers from the table, after checking that they slide well on their rail.  
    Then analyze the legs of your table. In our 2 of 4 legs were crooked and firmly glued to the structure of the table. We had to remove the glue, place them correctly and stick them again. 
    Do not have rush in these cases. Use alcohol and help with a utility knife or a pin started to remove the glue. To be able to remove the leg from the structure all the glue has to go in contact with the alcohol to melt well. Depending on how much glue is present this operation will take you away a long time and especially patience! 
    Do not overdo it with alcohol because excessive amounts of glue isn't good even if it's the most volatile of the alcohols. 
    Once extracted legs away, wait to dry thoroughly, even clean them with a piece of sandpaper. All residues of glue must be removed. 

    Our table had another problem: removed all the glue and clean for good legs, we realized that the structural problem was due to lack of small pieces of wood.  In these cases (unless you want to replace the bad leg) you have to reconstruct the missing parts with putty. If later you are going to apply an enamel you can use a white putty, otherwise you have to use the same colour you are going to apply.

     Reconstruct the missing parts, and wait that putty is dry. 

     















    N.B. Put on the cabinet copious putty because when it's drying putty retires and then you would have to fill it again. Pass a piece of sandpaper to remove the excesses and to bring the filler level of the wood.  Only when everything is dry you can re-position legs and glue. Two people are better to avoid mistakes!

     

     

    STEP 4: REMOVING OLD PAINT


    Remove knobs from the drawers. If later you are going to apply a handle as in our case, you will have to close old holes with a little quantity of putty. Arm your sander with 120 sandpaper and remove the old paint from the shelf. For legs and edges you have to use sandpaper and your hands! Remove all the paint and check that there are no other cracks or holes that you will go eventually fill with putty.

    IMPORTANT: when removing paint you'll have to wear a protective mask for nose and mouth. The ideal would be a mask with filters. Always use gloves to protect your hands and a face mask. 

    After cleaning the cabinet and ass again the sandpaper finer grained.



    STEP 5: APPLY PRIMER AND NEW PAINT



    Clean everything well. Apply a coat of primer on cabinet. Let dry it for good. I recommend you to follow the instructions on the packaging carefully and respect all dry time.

    Apply on the structure of cabinet the enamel teal blue and with a small brush make some little marks on the drawers.

     
    When the first coat is completely dry pass sandpaper to remove any imperfections and after apply the second coat of color.

    Let dry for good.

    Council: sandpaper, primer and paint should always be applied in the wood's fibers direction. To get the shabby chic effect, take a small piece of fine grit sandpaper and pass in some places, always following the wood's fibers. Do not overdo it or you will remove all the paint applied before!

    Passing the small piece of sandpaper will remove the top layer of paint highlighting what is left below.

    Clean with a dry patch to remove dust residue of enamel and put the solid wax with a clean patch, follow the instructions on the package (normally pass a thick layer of wax, expect dry time and pass back a piece on cabinet).



    STEP 6: ASSEMBLING FURNITURE


    For the application of the handles we have chosen we have to make 2 holes for drawer. I recommend you to take the exact point of the center and use the tip for the drill suited to wood.

    Here is the final result.

     Each piece of furniture has its own story and is not always easy to explain how to achieve it, but we are here for personalized advice!


               

    Renew old chairs and turn in beautiful vintage chairs with low budget

    RENEW OLD CHAIRS AND TURN THEM IN BEAUTIFUL VINTAGE CHAIRS WITH LOW BUDGET

     



    Here we are with a new project.

    It all started when I made the last move. In the new diving room I had an ancient table (about 800) but I had no chairs!

    I visited lots of shops, but chairs all have very high cost and the appearance was not always to my liking so I didn't found the right chairs to put around that type of table. Also because the rest of the decor of the room is like "Ikea".
     
    Among other things, my idea was to have chairs that was all different soft colors.

    Not finding them, I decided that I would try to make them myself.

    I bought the chairs at a thrift store and the choice was not easy. The budget was really low and used chairs, not marked but totally in wood, are between 10 and 20 Euros.

    If you find them less it's better.

    My choice was chairs without too many flaws: therefore with a strong enough seat and not damaged, with his feet intact and without holes caused by termites.
    I renewed tables, dressers and other but that the chairs were the ones who took me more time ever.

     

     

    MATERIALS


    Now let's see what can use:
    • alcohol and patches;
    • sander and sandpaper (80, 120, 240);
    • Fleur acrylic colors (pack of 50ml, in 5 different colors or as you need). It should be enough one pack for a chair, but it will depend very much on the sanding work you will be performing on your chairs;
    • liquid matt wax and waterproof finish (only water paint);
    • brushes. One for color, or only one, but remember to wash it thoroughly after use with warm water and mild soap, brush and some more small brushes to handle the details;
    • gloves, face mask, suitable clothing.
    Finding chairs and the materials, we can start with our work!

    STEP 1: PAINT REMOVAL


    Take a cloth soaked in alcohol and pass it on the chair. Clean it thoroughly and if watching the piece it seems there are traces of color continue to pass it insistently. More color can you remove in this way you will make less work later.
    Dry the chair with a clean rag.
    Take your sander, sandpaper 80, and pass on the seat and at the points where you can reach. Always follow the direction of the wood fibers.
    He finished the job with the sander, sandpaper past, more and grain 80, at the points where not manage to arrive.
    Removed all the past Paint over the chair of the finer grit sandpaper to prepare the chair to the application of paint (180 is ideal).
    If the conditions of the chair allow it, try not to remove nails and / or screws by removing the chairs. If they are very old it will not be easy to match all the pieces again. Among other things before they were used for different screws so you'll replace them if necessary. If there is a need not do it!

    STEP 2: APPLICATION OF COLOUR



    For these chairs I chose the Fleur of acrylic paints. You can be found at any hardware store. For every chair I used a single jar. Paints are very opaque and the effect is really cool.

    Begin to move the color on the chair starting from the seat, with a bigger brush, while for other parts you should use smaller brushes, being always aware smudge.
      
    Past two hands for each chair, always respecting the installation times.


     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    STEP 3: PROTECTIVE APPLICATION

    Sand with fine-grained sandpaper, just to remove any burrs.
    To protect chairs from the fall of liquids or other, I used a iquid matt wax to finish waterproof effect. If you see that the product is dense enough you can apply on a single hand.

    The initial effect will be very shiny, as you see in the picture, but it will go away as soon as it has dried thoroughly.



    Let it dry, and you're done.
    You know how many people have asked me where I bought them? ;-)

    Until next time!

    Rinnovare delle vecchie sedie

    RINNOVARE DELLE VECCHIE SEDIE E TRASFORMARLE CON UN BUDGET BASSO

    Restauro trasformazione sedia vintage finitura cerata
     
    Eccoci con un nuovo progetto.

    Tutto è nato quando ho fatto l'ultimo trasloco. Nel nuovo salotto dovevo mettere un tavolo dell'800 color mogano ma non avevo delle sedie da abbinargli! 
    Ho girato tantissimi negozi, ma tra i costi veramente alti e l'aspetto che non sempre era di mio gradimento non sono riuscita a trovare delle sedie da accostare a quel tipo di tavolo. Anche perchè il resto dell'arredamento della stanza è di Ikea.
    sedia vintage prima della trasformazione restauro Tra l'altro la mia idea era quella di accostare delle sedie che avessero dei colori tenui tutti differenti tra loro.

     Non trovandole ho deciso che avrei provato a farle da sola.
    sedia vintage prima della trasformazione restauro Ho acquistato le sedie in un negozio dell'usato e la scelta non è stata per niente facile. Il budget era veramente basso e i prezzi delle sedie usate, non di marca ma totalmente in legno, si aggirano tra i 10 e i 20 euro. 

     Se le trovate a meno ancora meglio.

     La mia scelta è così ricaduta su delle sedie senza troppi difetti: quindi con una seduta abbastanza resistente e non rovinata, con i piedi integri e senza buchi causati dai tarli.
     
    Ho trasformato tavoli, cassettiere, tavolini ma vi assicuro che le sedie sono state quelle che mi hanno preso più tempo in assoluto.

    I MATERIALI 

    A questo punto vediamo cosa può servirvi: 

    • alcol e pezze
    • levigatrice e carta vetrata a grana 80 - 120 - 240
    • colori acrilici Fleur (confezione da 50ml, in 5 diversi colori o quanti ve ne servono). Dovrebbe bastare una confezione per sedia, ma dipenderà molto dal lavoro di levigatura che andrete ad effettuare sulle vostre sedie.
    • cera liquida di finitura opaca ed impermeabile (ad acqua)
    • pennelli. Uno per colore, o uno solo, ma ricordate di lavarlo per bene dopo l'uso con acqua calda e sapone neutro, e qualche pennello da ritocco più piccolo per curare i dettagli.
    • guanti, mascherina di protezione, abbigliamento idoneo 

     Trovate le sedie e i materiali, possiamo iniziare con il nostro lavoro!

    FASE 1: RIMOZIONE DELLE VERNICI


     Prendete una pezza imbevuta di alcool e passatela sulla sedia. Pulitela per bene e se guardando la pezza vi sembra vi siano tracce di colore continuate a passarla con insistenza. Più colore riuscite a togliere in questo modo meno fatica farete in seguito.

    Asciugate la sedia con una pezza pulita.

    Prendete la vostra levigatrice, carta vetrata grana 80, e passatela sulla seduta e nei punti in cui riuscite ad arrivare. Seguite sempre la direzione delle fibre del legno.
    Finito il lavoro con la levigatrice, passate la carta vetrata, sempre grana 80, nei punti in cui non riuscivate ad arrivare.

    Rimossa tutta la vernice passate su tutta la sedia della carta vetrata a grana più fine, per preparare la sedia all'applicazione della vernice (180 è l'ideale).

     Se le condizioni della sedia lo consentono, cercate di non rimuovere chiodi e/o viti presenti smontando le sedie. Se sono molto vecchie non sarà facile far combaciare nuovamente tutti i pezzi. Tra l'altro prima venivano usate delle viti differenti quindi dovrete eventualmente sostituirle. Se non vi è la necessità non fatelo!

    FASE 2: APPLICAZIONE DEL COLORE

    Restauro trasformazione sedia vintage colori acrilici Fleur tortora
     Per queste sedie ho scelto delle vernici acriliche della Fleur. Le trovate in qualunque ferramenta. Per ogni sedia ho utilizzato un solo barattolo. Sono delle vernici molto coprenti e l'effetto è davvero fantastico.

    Iniziate a passare il colore sulla sedia partendo dalla seduta, con un pennello più grande, mentre per le altri parti vi conviene utilizzare dei pennelli più piccoli, stando sempre attenti alle sbavature.
      
    Passate due mani per ogni sedia, rispettando sempre i tempi di posa.
     Restauro trasformazione sedia vintage colori acrilici Fleur verde acidoRestauro trasformazione sedia vintage colori acrilici Fleur azzurro

    FASE 3: APPLICAZIONE PROTETTIVO 


     Carteggiate con carta vetrata a grana molto fine, solo per rimuovere eventuali sbavature.

     Per proteggere le sedie dall'usura e dalla caduta di possibili liquidi, ho utilizzato una finitura cerata ad effetto satinato e impermeabile. Se vedete che il prodotto è abbastanza denso potete passare una singola mano. 
    L'effetto iniziale sarà molto lucido, come vedete nella foto, ma andrà via non appena si sarà asciugata per bene.

    Restauro trasformazione sedia vintage finitura cerata Restauro trasformazione sedia vintage finitura cerata
    Restauro trasformazione sedia vintage finitura cerataRestauro trasformazione sedia vintage finitura cerata   



    Restauro trasformazione sedia vintage finitura cerata Restauro trasformazione sedia vintage finitura cerata

    Fate asciugare, ed il gioco è fatto.
    Sapete quante persone mi hanno chiesto dove le avessi acquistate? ;-)

     Alla prossima!
    Iscriviti a: Post (Atom)